Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Yesterday I walked the street where Christianity started.

It's not every day you get to say that, is it?

OK, we could quibble about exactly what the starting point of the faith was, but Paul's conversion sure is a handy one. Especially if you believe that famous story in the Acts of the Apostles where Paul, on the road to Damascus, is emphatically interpellated by Jesus, struck blind, and goes to the house of Ananias on Straight Street (now Sharia Medhat Pasha/Sharia Bab Sharqi) where he recovers his sight and joins the community that he will come to theologically define.

"Epiphany" thus becomes the essence of the Damascene brand (unless we're talking about swords or fabric).

For the record, I don't take the story literally at all; there's no corroboration for it. Except that Paul tells us firsthand in his own letter to the early Christians at Corinth that he saw Jesus. Feel free to fill in the details, he seems to imply. Decades later, somebody did. Et voila Acts.

But that's what history's like, right? So many layers and digging through them all won't definitely establish every link in the web of events. No one's ever done a sizable dig here, in the Old City. It's too busy to stop, too packed with life-happening for anyone to dream of putting it all on hold. What we know about the history of Dimashqi is a matter of textual record and the occasional accidental find. In the meantime, there's a Chapel of Ananias, and Chapel of St. Paul, because the intangible, at some point, wanted some tangibility.

Walking down Straight Street I'm not thinking about Paul's epiphany, mostly; I'm thinking about Kathmandu, the only reference point from my own experience for the dozens and hundreds of little stalls with their wares; handcrafts, fabrics, spices, fruits. The first time through, you have to just stroll through and take in the geist of it. More detailed exploration will come later. But, oh, the smells! It's a fricking smell-u-copia.

Yesterday was also the first official day of a new life chapter: "Divorced." Does that count as an epiphany? Northrop Frye said that the essence of the Gospel is that "you don't have to be what you were before." And if I did nothing else to mark the day, I guess a walk on Straight Street will have to do. I didn't buy any blades or cloth, but in this small way, Damascus is, for me, two thousand years laters, still delivering on its brand promise.

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Sunday, May 20, 2007

from the 902 to the 963.

DAM! I'm in Syria. Here in ash-Sham I'm having little adventures in Arabic several times a day. My total lack of a decent vocabulary continually trips me up, but that also means that every time I get something right it's like a little moral victory. This morning I rehearsed how to say "The Canadian Embassy" in decently colloquial fashion: es-safaara al-kanadiyye. My perfect pronunciation was something of a Pyrrhic victory: the cab driver was so convinced that he instantly unleashed a stream of Arabic none of which I understood. It eventually emerged that he didn't know where the embassy was, and took me on a drive to one of the embassy districts where he asked a Syrian officer for directions. After this side-excursion and eventual arrival which involved a spurious turn around the block, he had the nerve to ask for a tip and the further nerve not to make change; I ended up paying double fare as I wasn't in the mood to argue (in a cash-based culture, which entails a constant quest for small change, I experience a recurring minor guilt when I can't make exact payment). But being jacked for the equivalent of a dollar was nothing compared to being jacked for the equivalent of $50 by my own government for them to generate a letter authorizing me to study at Damascus University. But hey, I'm coming from a school that already acclimated me to paying pointless fees for purely bureaucratic reasons (oh snap!).

Just a brief bit about my visit yesterday to the National Museum; the most sublime object in their collection is a little 3" x 1" clay tablet that bears the Ugaritic alphabet, written left to right. It was for teaching aspiring scribes their letters, in scribe school 3400 years ago. That's right, I'm in the country where they invented the f**king alphabet. I got no comeback for that. In Canada we invented hockey and poutine.

I can't imagine any other place but Syria where I could feel so close to the ancient world. They've had time to figure out a thing or two around here. Except for solid net access.

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